Permanent Hair Removal - Myth or Magic?

The desire for permanent hair removal is not just an exercise in vanity. For many people, women in particular, unwanted hair can affect the way they are perceived and the way that they perceive themselves.

When I was in college, there was a girl that worked in the admissions office who was, by anyone's definition, quite attractive. But she had a rather heavy layer of hair on her upper lip that she apparently bleached to make it less noticeable. Unfortunately, whenever her name came up in conversation, inevitably someone would say, "Oh yeah, the one with the mustache." It was how she was defined.

Many cosmetics companies have tried to capitalize on the desire to be hair-free where hair should not normally appear. Salons offer "permanent hair removal" and thousands of products making the same promise proliferate on the Internet. But what is the cause of hair growth in unwanted places and what are the real possibilities for permanent hair removal?

What Causes Excessive Hair Growth?

The clinical term for hair that grows excessively in an area where it is normally minimal or not present at all is hirsutism. This condition manifests as dark, thick hair that appears on the face, chest, breasts, abdomen, back and other areas of the body. While this may be normal for men it is considered abnormal for women.

Hirsutism is typically caused by an elevation of testosterone or androgens. This elevation can be genetic or can be caused by imbalances within the pituitary bland or hypothalamus. In some cases, medications may upset the hormonal levels.

Regardless of the cause, a woman with hair in places on their body where it is not wanted will likely investigate methods of removing the hair.

Types of Hair Removal

Permanent hair removal is actually possible but it is difficult and not without risk. While there are a multitude of hair removal methods, there are essentially two categories of hair removal techniques:

1. Depilation – this term refers to any method of hair removal that removes the hair above the skin surface. Shaving is a form of depilation.
2. Epilation – this refers to methods that remove the entire hair above and below the skin surface. Only epilation methods have any chance at being permanent. Tweezing and waxing are forms of epilation but are strictly temporary.

 

Methods of “Permanent” Hair Removal

The challenge of removing hair on a permanent basis is that the root of each hair must be destroyed in order to prevent regrowth. This must be accomplished without damaging the surrounding tissue which may cause scarring and/or discoloration.

There are only a few methods of permanent hair removal and the permanence of each can still be questioned.

• Electrolysis – This requires that a very fine needle be inserted into each individual hair follicle. An electric current is sent through the needle into the individual hair root which essentially kills the root preventing further hair growth. Electrolysis does remove hair permanently but the method can be painful, time consuming and very expensive. There is the risk of infection and the possibility of scabbing or scarring. It is best utilized to address smaller areas of the body like the upper lip.

• Laser Treatment – Lasers are another method of directing heat energy at hair follicles and destroying the root. An advantage over electrolysis is that larger areas of skin can be treated. This approach to hair removal can be expensive and may also cause the treated area to become inflamed and possibly discolored.

One consideration is that the FDA will not allow practitioners of laser hair removal to claim “permanent hair removal.” They will only permit the claim of “permanent hair reduction.” That is because the treatment will likely allow some hair to regrow although it may be lighter and less dense. Laser treatments will likely need to be repeated periodically.

• Flash Lamps – In this approach light and radiation are filtered to allow only specific wavelengths. The filtered light only targets darker material, destroying the root in the hair follicle while sparing the lighter surrounding tissue. This method is not supported by much performance data and is also classified as a method of hair “reduction” rather than permanent hair removal. It is most effective on light-skinned individuals.

• Oral and Topical Medications – There are a variety of medications that are used by dermatologists to assist in reducing unwanted hair. These are typically antiandrogens which block androgen production, a cause of excess hair. Treatment success varies greatly and some experience uncomfortable side-effects. The medications must be continued to promote hair reduction so this is by no means a “permanent hair removal” treatment.

There are a variety of excellent resources online that provide thorough analysis of hair removal methods along with references to many scientific and authority sources. One excellent site is Hair Facts at www.hairfacts.com. I highly recommend this site as a source of information and recommendations about permanent hair removal and reduction.